Mary Berry Lemon Drizzle Traybake (from the Mail on Sunday 1 June 2013)
To ensure the lemon sinks into the mixture, pour over the glaze while the cake is still warm
16 slices
225 g butter (room temperature)
Or vegetable spread (at least 70% fat)
Extra for greasing
225g caster sugar
275g self raising flour
1 tsp baking powder
4 lge eggs
4tbsp milk
Grated zest 2 lemons
For the glaze
Juice of 2 lemons
15g sugar
Pre heat oven 180*C (fan 160*C Gas4). Grease Traybake tin 30x23x4cms and line base baking parchment.
Put butter, sugar, flour, baking powder, eggs, milk and lemon zest in large bowl. Beat with electric mixer for 1-2 mins until smooth.
Turn mix into tin and spread evenly.
Bake 35-40 mins or until risen and springy to the touch.
Run knife round edge of tin to loosen then transfer to wire rack.
Make glaze: Mix lemon juice with sugar and spoon over warm cake. Leave to cool then cut into 16 rectangular slices.
To get more juice out of lemons, cut them in half lengthwise and put in microwave on high for 30 seconds before removing juice with a lemon squeezer or reamer.
- Posted using BlogPress from my iPad
Monday, 3 June 2013
Monday, 8 April 2013
More soda bread White and Brown
Once I get then yen to cook something I can't resist the temptation to look for more recipes. This one is from Rachel Allen of the Ballymaloe cookery school so should be really authentic.
White Soda Bread
An Irish favourite, which we bake every day at Ballymaloe cookery school, and which is very quick and simple for you to make at home. This is the basic recipe but there are so many sweet and savoury variations that you can try - chocolate, raisins, cinnamon, cubes of crispy bacon, cheese, herbs . . . the possibilities are endless. The deep cross in the loaf is supposed to let out the fairies - so that the bread won't be jinxed by evil spirits! In reality, of course, it's just to allow the heat to penetrate the loaf as it's cooking. Makes 1 Loaf
Ingredients
450g (1lb) plain flour
1 level tsp caster sugar
1 level tsp bicarbonate of soda
1 tsp salt
350-425ml (12-15fl oz) buttermilk or sour milk
Method
1. Preheat the oven to 230°C (425°F), Gas mark 8.
2. Sift the dry ingredients into a large bowl and make a well in the centre. Pour in most of the buttermilk (leaving about 60ml/2fl oz in the measuring jug). Using one hand with your fingers outstretched like a claw, bring the flour and liquid together, adding more buttermilk if necessary. Do not knead the mixture or it will become heavy. The dough should be fairly soft, but not too wet and sticky.
3. When it comes together, turn onto a floured work surface and bring together a little more. Pat the dough into a round about 4cm (1½in) deep and cut a deep cross in it.
4. Place on a baking tray and bake in the preheated oven for 15 minutes, then turn down the heat to 200°C (400°F), Gas mark 6 and cook for 30 minutes more. When cooked, the loaf will sound slightly hollow when tapped on the base and be golden in colour. I often turn it upside down for the last 5 minutes of cooking. Allow to cool on a wire rack.
VariationsWhite soda scones:
Make the dough as above but flattened into a round approximately 2.5cm (1in) deep. Cut into scones and cook for 15-20 minutes at 230°C (450°F), Gas mark 8.
White soda bread or scones with herbs: Add 2-3 tablespoons freshly chopped herbs - such as rosemary, sage, thyme, chives, parsley or lemon balm - to the dry ingredients, and make as above.
Spotted dog: Add 100g (3½oz) sultanas, raisins or currants, or a mixture of all three, to the dry ingredients, and make as above. Back to top
Brown Soda Bread
For this wholemeal soda bread the method differs to the usual white version, so don't just swap half of the plain flour for wholemeal. Makes 1 Loaf
Ingredients
225g (8oz) wholemeal flour
225g (8oz) plain flour
1 tsp salt
1 tsp bicarbonate of soda
50g (2oz) mixed seeds, such as sesame, pumpkin or sunflower, or golden linseeds (optional)
25g (1oz) butter (optional)
1 egg
375-400ml (13-14fl oz) Buttermilk
You will need a 25cm (10in) diameter tart tin, 3cm (1¼in) deep
Method
1. Preheat the oven to 220°C (425°F), Gas mark 7.
2. Sift together the flours, salt and bicarbonate of soda in a large bowl and mix with the seeds (if using). Add the butter (if using), and rub into the flour mixture with your fingertips until it resembles breadcrumbs. Make a well in the centre.
3. In another bowl, whisk the egg with the buttermilk and pour most of the liquid into the flour mixture. Using one hand with your fingers outstretched like a claw, bring the flour and liquid together, adding more buttermilk if necessary. The dough should be quite soft, but not too sticky.
4. Turn onto a floured work surface, and gently bring it together into a round about 4cm (1½in) deep. Cut a deep cross on top
5. Place on a baking tray and bake in the preheated oven for 15 minutes, then turn down the heat to 200°C (400°F), Gas mark 6 and cook for 30 minutes more. When cooked, the loaf will sound slightly hollow when tapped on the base. Allow to cool on a wire rack.
- Posted using BlogPress from my iPad
White Soda Bread
An Irish favourite, which we bake every day at Ballymaloe cookery school, and which is very quick and simple for you to make at home. This is the basic recipe but there are so many sweet and savoury variations that you can try - chocolate, raisins, cinnamon, cubes of crispy bacon, cheese, herbs . . . the possibilities are endless. The deep cross in the loaf is supposed to let out the fairies - so that the bread won't be jinxed by evil spirits! In reality, of course, it's just to allow the heat to penetrate the loaf as it's cooking. Makes 1 Loaf
Ingredients
450g (1lb) plain flour
1 level tsp caster sugar
1 level tsp bicarbonate of soda
1 tsp salt
350-425ml (12-15fl oz) buttermilk or sour milk
Method
1. Preheat the oven to 230°C (425°F), Gas mark 8.
2. Sift the dry ingredients into a large bowl and make a well in the centre. Pour in most of the buttermilk (leaving about 60ml/2fl oz in the measuring jug). Using one hand with your fingers outstretched like a claw, bring the flour and liquid together, adding more buttermilk if necessary. Do not knead the mixture or it will become heavy. The dough should be fairly soft, but not too wet and sticky.
3. When it comes together, turn onto a floured work surface and bring together a little more. Pat the dough into a round about 4cm (1½in) deep and cut a deep cross in it.
4. Place on a baking tray and bake in the preheated oven for 15 minutes, then turn down the heat to 200°C (400°F), Gas mark 6 and cook for 30 minutes more. When cooked, the loaf will sound slightly hollow when tapped on the base and be golden in colour. I often turn it upside down for the last 5 minutes of cooking. Allow to cool on a wire rack.
VariationsWhite soda scones:
Make the dough as above but flattened into a round approximately 2.5cm (1in) deep. Cut into scones and cook for 15-20 minutes at 230°C (450°F), Gas mark 8.
White soda bread or scones with herbs: Add 2-3 tablespoons freshly chopped herbs - such as rosemary, sage, thyme, chives, parsley or lemon balm - to the dry ingredients, and make as above.
Spotted dog: Add 100g (3½oz) sultanas, raisins or currants, or a mixture of all three, to the dry ingredients, and make as above. Back to top
Brown Soda Bread
For this wholemeal soda bread the method differs to the usual white version, so don't just swap half of the plain flour for wholemeal. Makes 1 Loaf
Ingredients
225g (8oz) wholemeal flour
225g (8oz) plain flour
1 tsp salt
1 tsp bicarbonate of soda
50g (2oz) mixed seeds, such as sesame, pumpkin or sunflower, or golden linseeds (optional)
25g (1oz) butter (optional)
1 egg
375-400ml (13-14fl oz) Buttermilk
You will need a 25cm (10in) diameter tart tin, 3cm (1¼in) deep
Method
1. Preheat the oven to 220°C (425°F), Gas mark 7.
2. Sift together the flours, salt and bicarbonate of soda in a large bowl and mix with the seeds (if using). Add the butter (if using), and rub into the flour mixture with your fingertips until it resembles breadcrumbs. Make a well in the centre.
3. In another bowl, whisk the egg with the buttermilk and pour most of the liquid into the flour mixture. Using one hand with your fingers outstretched like a claw, bring the flour and liquid together, adding more buttermilk if necessary. The dough should be quite soft, but not too sticky.
4. Turn onto a floured work surface, and gently bring it together into a round about 4cm (1½in) deep. Cut a deep cross on top
5. Place on a baking tray and bake in the preheated oven for 15 minutes, then turn down the heat to 200°C (400°F), Gas mark 6 and cook for 30 minutes more. When cooked, the loaf will sound slightly hollow when tapped on the base. Allow to cool on a wire rack.
- Posted using BlogPress from my iPad
Friday, 5 April 2013
Buttermilk substitute & Seafood Chowder
Having watched yet another episode of Masterchef (!) where they made a tasty looking Irish Shellfish Chowder I thought I would have ago.
It was accompanied by a Soda Bread loaf, which I had no idea how to make. It used Buttermilk, which isn't readily available in North Yorkshire and I have no idea of what the French equivalent is so I looked for a Buttermilk Substitute
This came from the Nigella.com blog
Alternatively you can sour some milk by adding some acid. Pour 250mls (1
cup) milk into a jug and stir in 1 (15ml) tablespoon of lemon juice or
white wine vinegar. Stir well and leave to stand for 5 minutes before
using as directed in the recipe. Full fat (whole) milk or semi-skimmed
(reduced fat) milk work best here as skimmed (non fat) milk tends to
turn a little watery.
And from the BBC-Food website here is the full recipe
It was accompanied by a Soda Bread loaf, which I had no idea how to make. It used Buttermilk, which isn't readily available in North Yorkshire and I have no idea of what the French equivalent is so I looked for a Buttermilk Substitute
This came from the Nigella.com blog
And from the BBC-Food website here is the full recipe
Irish fish chowder with soda bread
in season
Loaded with different types
of fish, this simple chowder recipe stands or falls on the freshness of
the ingredients. Serve with traditional soda bread.
Ingredients
- For the soda bread
-
- 200g/7oz wholemeal flour
- 275g/9¾oz strong white flour, plus extra for sprinkling
- 1 heaped tsp bicarbonate of soda
- pinch salt
- 200ml/7fl oz buttermilk
- 1 large free-range egg
- 1 tsp honey
- For the chowder
-
- 1 large potato
- 250g/9oz un-dyed smoked haddock fillets, skin on
- 1 bay leaf
- 1 shallot, halved
- 650ml/22fl oz full-fat milk
- 30g/1oz unsalted butter
- 1 onion, chopped
- 1 clove garlic, sliced
- 150g/5½oz sweetcorn kernels (thawed, if frozen)
- handful runner beans, sliced
- 6 scallops, sliced
- 12 steamed clams
- 200g/7oz pollock fillet, diced
- 150g/5½oz raw king prawns
- 1 tbsp chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley
- freshly ground black pepper
Preparation method
-
Preheat the oven to 190C/375F/Gas 5. Grease and flour a 900g/2lb loaf tin.
-
Combine the flours, bicarbonate of soda and salt in a mixing bowl.
-
In a measuring jug, combine the buttermilk with the egg and honey.
-
Make a well in the center of the dry ingredients,
and then pour in the wet mixture. Add a little extra flour if you find
the dough is too wet and sticky.
-
Using a wooden spoon, bring the mix together to form a dough. Shape into a rough oval and place in the loaf tin.
-
Sprinkle a little flour on top and bake in the oven for 35-40 minutes. Turn the loaf out on a wire rack to cool before slicing.
-
For the chowder, place the potato in a saucepan,
cover with water, bring to the boil and simmer for 15-20 minutes until
tender. Cut the cooked potato into small pieces and set aside.
-
Place the smoked haddock, skin side up, in a pan
with the bay leaf and shallot and cover with the milk. Bring to a simmer
for a few minutes, then take off the heat and leave in the milk to
finish cooking.
-
In a large pan, gently fry the onions in the butter
until softened. Stir in the sliced garlic, cooked potato, sweetcorn,
then add a handful of the sliced runner beans.
-
Lift the haddock out of the milk with a slotted
spoon and place on a plate. Peel away the skin and tear into pieces.
Strain the milk through a sieve into the onion potato mixture and simmer
for about 20 minutes.
-
Add the cooked haddock, sliced scallops, steamed
clams, pollock and the prawns and warm through, then stir in the parsley
and season with lots of black pepper.
-
To serve, ladle the chowder into bowls and serve with thick slices of soda bread.
Saturday, 29 December 2012
Cheese fondue and games
I found this recipe on Jamie Oliver.com, contributed by a Swiss ladyand include it because I love the translation, it also gives quantities of cheese per person (always useful)
I used half Beaufort (not the expensive Alpage variety) about 3/8 Swiss gruyere because it is stronger than the Beaufort, and 1/8 Emmental to give it some 'ficelle' (stringiness) as advised by my man on the market here who supplied the cheese, together with a delicious selection of raw ham and mountain sausage sec.
I only eat this during the day to avoid cheesy dreams, and DO NOT DRINK COLD WATER with it.
Yum
- About 800g cheese
- 4 dl dry, acidic, tangy white wine (per 200g white cheese 1 dl)
- 2-3 teaspoons coated Maizena (cornstarch)
- 1 small glass of kirsch (cherry schnaps) (or water)
- 1 clove of garlic
- 1 tablespoon of lemon juice
- About 500g of bread (white bread, baguette)
- Pepper and nutmeg
-Pickles
Method
Basic recipe for 4 people
It is calculated per person between 150g and 250g cheese (2-thirds mature Gruyere, Emmentaler third mature and fribourger vacherin), according to the eater and above all, depending on how well the fondue is. The amount of information per person on fondue mixes and pre-packaged fondue are unfortunately often too tight.
The cheese and wine should have roomtemparatur. Cut the garlic into half, then countersink the Caquelon (cheese pan) and leave it in the pan (its great fun to fish them out in the end). Then grate the cheese, put it together in the Caquelon with the wine, cooking slowly on low heat about 15-20 minutes on the stove by constant stirring to melt it. When the cheese is completely melted, mix the Maizena and the lemon juice with kirsch in the glass and give it to the cheese. Cooking further by constant stirring about 2 minutes on high flame untill its viscid. Season it with pepper and nutmeg. Now you can serve it.
Wreak:
The Caquelon on the table is most suitable controlled at a spirit stove (which you emblazed before), where it should permanently simmering (do not cook or boil). Serve bread cubes cuts and the pickles. For the Drinks, serve white wine or black tea. When dipping the bread cubes into the fondue stirr it well. Through this stirring the fondue remains bound and viscid until the end, it also prevents the burning on the ground of the Caquelon. After the fondue, drink a little glass of the schnaps for a better digestion.
Here in switzerland, we have a traditional „game“ during the fondue: if a man loses his bread during stirring it in the cheese, he has to spend a bottle of wine. If a woman loses the bread in the cheese, she has to give a kiss to someone at the table. There are many versions of the „game“, for example: In winter, in the mountains, you have to jump half naked into the snow or something.
Enjoy your meal.
Greetings Siiri
PS: You can mix the cheese fondue with tomatoes, mushrooms and nuts or maybe broccoli. Instead of bread you can take pieces of potatoes.
- Posted using BlogPress from my iPad
I used half Beaufort (not the expensive Alpage variety) about 3/8 Swiss gruyere because it is stronger than the Beaufort, and 1/8 Emmental to give it some 'ficelle' (stringiness) as advised by my man on the market here who supplied the cheese, together with a delicious selection of raw ham and mountain sausage sec.
I only eat this during the day to avoid cheesy dreams, and DO NOT DRINK COLD WATER with it.
Yum
- About 800g cheese
- 4 dl dry, acidic, tangy white wine (per 200g white cheese 1 dl)
- 2-3 teaspoons coated Maizena (cornstarch)
- 1 small glass of kirsch (cherry schnaps) (or water)
- 1 clove of garlic
- 1 tablespoon of lemon juice
- About 500g of bread (white bread, baguette)
- Pepper and nutmeg
-Pickles
Method
Basic recipe for 4 people
It is calculated per person between 150g and 250g cheese (2-thirds mature Gruyere, Emmentaler third mature and fribourger vacherin), according to the eater and above all, depending on how well the fondue is. The amount of information per person on fondue mixes and pre-packaged fondue are unfortunately often too tight.
The cheese and wine should have roomtemparatur. Cut the garlic into half, then countersink the Caquelon (cheese pan) and leave it in the pan (its great fun to fish them out in the end). Then grate the cheese, put it together in the Caquelon with the wine, cooking slowly on low heat about 15-20 minutes on the stove by constant stirring to melt it. When the cheese is completely melted, mix the Maizena and the lemon juice with kirsch in the glass and give it to the cheese. Cooking further by constant stirring about 2 minutes on high flame untill its viscid. Season it with pepper and nutmeg. Now you can serve it.
Wreak:
The Caquelon on the table is most suitable controlled at a spirit stove (which you emblazed before), where it should permanently simmering (do not cook or boil). Serve bread cubes cuts and the pickles. For the Drinks, serve white wine or black tea. When dipping the bread cubes into the fondue stirr it well. Through this stirring the fondue remains bound and viscid until the end, it also prevents the burning on the ground of the Caquelon. After the fondue, drink a little glass of the schnaps for a better digestion.
Here in switzerland, we have a traditional „game“ during the fondue: if a man loses his bread during stirring it in the cheese, he has to spend a bottle of wine. If a woman loses the bread in the cheese, she has to give a kiss to someone at the table. There are many versions of the „game“, for example: In winter, in the mountains, you have to jump half naked into the snow or something.
Enjoy your meal.
Greetings Siiri
PS: You can mix the cheese fondue with tomatoes, mushrooms and nuts or maybe broccoli. Instead of bread you can take pieces of potatoes.
- Posted using BlogPress from my iPad
Location:Pralognan la Vanoise
Tuesday, 18 December 2012
Mince Pies
Paul Hollywood’s mince pies
Ingredients
For the pastry
375g/13oz plain flour
250g/9oz butter, softened
125g/4oz caster sugar, plus extra for sprinkling
1 medium free-range egg
Zest of 1 lemon
For the filling
600 g jar mincemeat
2 tangerines, zest grated and flesh chopped 1 apple, finely diced
Preparation method
1. Preheat the oven to 200C/400F/Gas 6. To make the sweet pastry, rub the flour, butter, sugar and egg together with a splash of cold water until it just comes together as a dough. Do not over work the dough. Wrap the pastry in clingfilm and set aside to chill in the fridge while you make the filling.
2. To make the filling, turn the mincemeat out into a bowl, grate the zest of the tangerines into the mincemeat, then peel and chop the fruit. Throw the tangerine and apple pieces into the bowl and blend by hand.
3. Roll out the pastry to a 3mm/1/8in thickness. With a round pastry cutter, cut out 6 x 9cm/31⁄2in discs of pastry. Press the pastry into the muffin cups and fill each one with a good helping of the mincemeat mixture, so that it reaches three-quarters of the way up the side of the pastry-lined cup.
4. With a fluted pastry cutter, cut out 6 x 8cm/31⁄4 in pastry circles for the lids (slightly bigger than the top of the muffin cups). Place a lid on top of each pie and gently push down. Sprinkle with caster sugar.
5. Bake for 20 minutes, then transfer to a wire rack to cool. Dust with icing sugar and serve warm with fresh cream.
- Posted using BlogPress from my iPad
Ingredients
For the pastry
375g/13oz plain flour
250g/9oz butter, softened
125g/4oz caster sugar, plus extra for sprinkling
1 medium free-range egg
Zest of 1 lemon
For the filling
600 g jar mincemeat
2 tangerines, zest grated and flesh chopped 1 apple, finely diced
Preparation method
1. Preheat the oven to 200C/400F/Gas 6. To make the sweet pastry, rub the flour, butter, sugar and egg together with a splash of cold water until it just comes together as a dough. Do not over work the dough. Wrap the pastry in clingfilm and set aside to chill in the fridge while you make the filling.
2. To make the filling, turn the mincemeat out into a bowl, grate the zest of the tangerines into the mincemeat, then peel and chop the fruit. Throw the tangerine and apple pieces into the bowl and blend by hand.
3. Roll out the pastry to a 3mm/1/8in thickness. With a round pastry cutter, cut out 6 x 9cm/31⁄2in discs of pastry. Press the pastry into the muffin cups and fill each one with a good helping of the mincemeat mixture, so that it reaches three-quarters of the way up the side of the pastry-lined cup.
4. With a fluted pastry cutter, cut out 6 x 8cm/31⁄4 in pastry circles for the lids (slightly bigger than the top of the muffin cups). Place a lid on top of each pie and gently push down. Sprinkle with caster sugar.
5. Bake for 20 minutes, then transfer to a wire rack to cool. Dust with icing sugar and serve warm with fresh cream.
- Posted using BlogPress from my iPad
Location:The Great British Bake Off
Sunday, 16 December 2012
Perfect Rosti
From the Guardian food and drink.
Felicity's perfect rösti. Photograph: Felicity Cloake
They're glorious plain, but a rösti can be made into a complete meal with the addition of onion, bacon and nutty Alpine cheese. (Some areas even add coffee; those crazy Swiss, eh?). All you really need for a good rösti, however, is some firm potatoes, parboiled to give a soft, melting interior, and fried in plenty of hot butter and goose fat until crisp, and a few mountains to climb to work up an appetite.
Serves 4 as a side dish, 2 as a main course
2 medium-sized waxy potatoes
1 tbsp butter
1 tbsp goose fat
1. Parboil the potatoes in salted water until just tender, but not soft. Allow to cool, and chill for at least a couple of hours.
2. Coarsely grate the potatoes and season. Heat half the fat in a small, heavy-based frying pan until sizzling, and then add the grated potato, allow to cook for a couple of minutes and then shape it into a flat cake, pressing down as lightly as possible. Allow to cook for a couple of minutes, then gently shake the pan to loosen the potato.
3. Continue to cook for about 10 minutes until golden and crisp, then place a plate on top of the pan and invert it so the cake sits, cooked-side up, on the plate.
4. Add the rest of the butter and goose fat to the pan and, when hot, slide the potato cake back into the pan the other way up. Cook for another 10 minutes, then serve.
Is a rösti nothing more than a hash brown with Alpine airs and graces, or a distinctive national dish Switzerland should be proud of? What are your top tips, and what other foods do you favour to keep off the mountain chill?
- Posted using BlogPress from my iPad
Felicity's perfect rösti. Photograph: Felicity Cloake
They're glorious plain, but a rösti can be made into a complete meal with the addition of onion, bacon and nutty Alpine cheese. (Some areas even add coffee; those crazy Swiss, eh?). All you really need for a good rösti, however, is some firm potatoes, parboiled to give a soft, melting interior, and fried in plenty of hot butter and goose fat until crisp, and a few mountains to climb to work up an appetite.
Serves 4 as a side dish, 2 as a main course
2 medium-sized waxy potatoes
1 tbsp butter
1 tbsp goose fat
1. Parboil the potatoes in salted water until just tender, but not soft. Allow to cool, and chill for at least a couple of hours.
2. Coarsely grate the potatoes and season. Heat half the fat in a small, heavy-based frying pan until sizzling, and then add the grated potato, allow to cook for a couple of minutes and then shape it into a flat cake, pressing down as lightly as possible. Allow to cook for a couple of minutes, then gently shake the pan to loosen the potato.
3. Continue to cook for about 10 minutes until golden and crisp, then place a plate on top of the pan and invert it so the cake sits, cooked-side up, on the plate.
4. Add the rest of the butter and goose fat to the pan and, when hot, slide the potato cake back into the pan the other way up. Cook for another 10 minutes, then serve.
Is a rösti nothing more than a hash brown with Alpine airs and graces, or a distinctive national dish Switzerland should be proud of? What are your top tips, and what other foods do you favour to keep off the mountain chill?
- Posted using BlogPress from my iPad
Monday, 13 August 2012
Lunch out means a light tea. Or does it?
A decent hike and a good lunch meant that we weren't very hungry when it came to suppertime. We decided on cheese on toast, but then I remembered our old baby sitter used to make us fantastic welsh rarebit (although she didnt call it that).
I duly scanned the interweb and came across this interesting blog, which I reproduce here for my benefit, at the risk of boring you, dear reader:
p.s. I used whatever hard cheese I had in my cheese box, and as I had no stout I just used milk. I also added some finely chopped shallot, and some chopped flat leafed parsley, and used french mustard, so it wasnt really much like this recipe, but it was still very good, and definitely worth repeating.
About a year ago, I devoted some 1,500 words to the best way to cook a jacket potato.
Among the many comments this important subject attracted was a demand
that I devoted equal attention to perfect toast "because I can't wait to
see what some of your more enlightened readers come up with". So
finally, StrokerAce,
this one's for you. It might not quite be what you requested (although I
could certainly hold forth for a few hundred words on the best way to
cook a crumpet), but after a week of cheese on toast, I am more convinced than ever that such simple recipes are well worth investigation.
Now, let's get the name thing out of the way at the start. Some suggest that the dish earned its rather peculiar title (and, once and for all, rabbit is the correct form regardless of what this newspaper's style guide says. Rarebit doesn't pop up until some 60 years after the recipe itself first surfaces, although given both have been in use for over two centuries, I think you're entitled to go with either. I prefer rabbit, but to fall in line with the official guidance will suffer rarebit here) from the poverty of that nation. The point was that a Welshman couldn't afford even that cheapest of meats. Whatever the truth of it, I think this does the heavenly combination of crisp toast and molten cheese a disservice; done right, it's certainly no poor relation.
Indeed, according to a 16th-century joke, the Welsh were famous for their love of toasted cheese – St Peter was said to have got rid of a troublesome "company of Welchman" who were troubling the peace of heaven by going outside and shouting caws pobi – "that is as moche as to say 'Rosty'd ches!' Which thynge the Welchman herying ran out of heven a grete pace". And who wouldn't be tempted from eternal bliss by such a prospect? In fact, according to Jane Grigson, rarebits were once common throughout southern and western England, but, with the only Welsh sort still on the menu, it seems they really do know how to do it best north of the Bristol Channel.
Delia recipe welsh rarebit. Photograph: Felicity Cloake
Almost all recipes call for cheddar, but I suspect that's simply
because it's what most of us keep in the house – and rarebit is a very
Sunday-evening, empty fridge type of dish. There are other options: Jane
Grigson suggests Lancashire in English Food, as do Simon Hopkinson and
Lindsay Bareham in The Prawn Cocktail Years, where they explain that,
traditionally, a rarebit would have been made from "hard English cheeses
– cheddar, double gloucester, cheshire and lancashire". Mark Hix,
perhaps anticipating a Welsh backlash, goes for caerphilly in his book
British Regional Food, while Delia consigns any such concerns to the
bottom of Lyn Tegid, and plumps for an equal mix of cheddar and parmesan
for the Welsh Rarebit Soufflé in her Complete Cookery Course.
Nigel Slater recipe welsh rarebit. Photograph: Felicity Cloake
Nigel Slater reckons that caerphilly doesn't have enough of a "tang
to be interesting", and I'm inclined to agree with him – the mild
flavour is lost among the Worcestershire sauce, mustard and stout in Hix's recipe.
However, at the risk of exposing myself as a cheese wimp, I find mature
cheddar too aggressively flavoured – after half a slice, I start to
feel a cheese overdose coming on (and this from someone weaned on
Roquefort). Delia's parmesan obviously just makes the situation worse,
but I'm on to something with lancashire; it has just enough bite to
dominate the dish, without smothering every other ingredient in the
process.
Mrs Beeton recipe welsh rarebit. Photograph: Felicity Cloake
Most rarebit recipes, with the exception of Nigel Slater's quick version,
loosen the cheese with a liquid: milk or ale, in Jane Grigson's
version; cider for Cheese Society; port for Mrs Beeton; or stout, which
comes with the weighty recommendations of both Mark Hix and the Bareham /
Hopkinson team.
The cider is too acidic for my taste, and the port, while surprisingly delicious, gives the dish a vinous tang that reminds me more of a Swiss fondue than something from the Black Mountains. (It also turns the cheese a rather scary colour.) The ale isn't bad – it adds a subtle nutty flavour – but once I try a rarebit made with stout, I'm sold.
Simon Hopkinson recipe welsh rarebit. Photograph: Felicity Cloake
It gives the dish a rich malty savouriness which works brilliantly
with the salty tang of the cheese – and there are a number of great
Welsh stouts available too, just to soften the blow of that English
cheese. Nigel, meanwhile, mixes his cheese with solid butter, which
gives a denser, more intensely cheddary topping which I'd hesitate to
describe as anything grander than a simple cheese on toast.
Jane Grigson recipe welsh rarebit. Photograph: Felicity Cloake
Such fat, however, is an important distinguishing feature in a proper
rarebit. It could be melted butter, as in Jane Grigson's recipe, double
cream, as in Mark Hix's, or egg yolks, as used in the Prawn Cocktail
Years, but without it, as Mrs Beeton's recipe proves, the cheese quickly
reverts to a rubbery mess (which is no doubt why she advises keeping it
bubbling over a rather nifty-looking "cheese toaster" filled with hot
water, for people to spread on to toast at table).
I think the butter makes things rather too liquid and greasy, and by the time I've reduced the double cream with the stout, I'm not sure I can taste it anyway. Egg yolks, however, work brilliantly to soften the cheese to a spreadable consistency, although I wouldn't wait until it's completely cool to stir them in, as Simon and Lindsay suggest, because by this point it has solidified to such an extent that it's difficult to beat back into smooth submission.
The Cheese Society's recipe welsh rarebit. Photograph: Felicity Cloake
Delia uses eggs yolks too, added to a white sauce, and then mixed
with cheese and folded into some whipped up egg whites to make what is,
essentially, a soufflé base, which is then piled on to toasts and
grilled. The airy texture does nothing for me though – gooey should be
the watchword with rarebit.
The Cheese Society also has an unusual take on this classic dish. I start by whisking flour into milk, and heating until slightly thickened, then stirring in cheese, breadcrumbs and cider and continuing to cook until the mixture comes away from the side of the pan. The mixture is then whizzed in a food processor, along with an egg and an egg yolk, before it's ready to be spooned on to toast, and grilled.
Felicity's perfect welsh rarebit. Photograph: Felicity Cloake
Welsh rarebit may be a simple dish, but if even Nigel Slater admits
to a few failures, then it's certainly worth getting the basics right.
This is my perfect version, but, using the same formula, play around
with different kinds of cheeses and beers until you find one that would
tempt you out of paradise. Because if heaven isn't toasted cheese, then I
don't know what is.
Serves 2
1 tsp English mustard powder
3 tbsp stout
30g butter
Worcestershire sauce, to taste
175g lancashire cheese, grated
2 egg yolks
2 slices bread
1. Mix the mustard powder with a little stout in the bottom of a small pan to make a paste, then stir in the rest of the stout and add the butter and about 1 tsp Worcestershire sauce – you can always add more later if you like. Heat gently until the butter has melted.
2. Tip in the cheese and stir to melt, but do not let the mixture boil. Once smooth, taste for seasoning, then take off the heat and allow to cool until just slightly warm, being careful it doesn't solidify.
3. Pre-heat the grill to medium-high, and toast the bread on both sides. Beat the yolks into the warm cheese until smooth, and then spoon on to the toast and cook until bubbling and golden. Serve immediately.
I duly scanned the interweb and came across this interesting blog, which I reproduce here for my benefit, at the risk of boring you, dear reader:
p.s. I used whatever hard cheese I had in my cheese box, and as I had no stout I just used milk. I also added some finely chopped shallot, and some chopped flat leafed parsley, and used french mustard, so it wasnt really much like this recipe, but it was still very good, and definitely worth repeating.
How to cook perfect welsh rarebit
Felicity's perfect welsh rarebit. Photograph: Felicity Cloake
Now, let's get the name thing out of the way at the start. Some suggest that the dish earned its rather peculiar title (and, once and for all, rabbit is the correct form regardless of what this newspaper's style guide says. Rarebit doesn't pop up until some 60 years after the recipe itself first surfaces, although given both have been in use for over two centuries, I think you're entitled to go with either. I prefer rabbit, but to fall in line with the official guidance will suffer rarebit here) from the poverty of that nation. The point was that a Welshman couldn't afford even that cheapest of meats. Whatever the truth of it, I think this does the heavenly combination of crisp toast and molten cheese a disservice; done right, it's certainly no poor relation.
Indeed, according to a 16th-century joke, the Welsh were famous for their love of toasted cheese – St Peter was said to have got rid of a troublesome "company of Welchman" who were troubling the peace of heaven by going outside and shouting caws pobi – "that is as moche as to say 'Rosty'd ches!' Which thynge the Welchman herying ran out of heven a grete pace". And who wouldn't be tempted from eternal bliss by such a prospect? In fact, according to Jane Grigson, rarebits were once common throughout southern and western England, but, with the only Welsh sort still on the menu, it seems they really do know how to do it best north of the Bristol Channel.
The cheese
Delia recipe welsh rarebit. Photograph: Felicity Cloake
Almost all recipes call for cheddar, but I suspect that's simply
because it's what most of us keep in the house – and rarebit is a very
Sunday-evening, empty fridge type of dish. There are other options: Jane
Grigson suggests Lancashire in English Food, as do Simon Hopkinson and
Lindsay Bareham in The Prawn Cocktail Years, where they explain that,
traditionally, a rarebit would have been made from "hard English cheeses
– cheddar, double gloucester, cheshire and lancashire". Mark Hix,
perhaps anticipating a Welsh backlash, goes for caerphilly in his book
British Regional Food, while Delia consigns any such concerns to the
bottom of Lyn Tegid, and plumps for an equal mix of cheddar and parmesan
for the Welsh Rarebit Soufflé in her Complete Cookery Course.
Nigel Slater recipe welsh rarebit. Photograph: Felicity Cloake
Nigel Slater reckons that caerphilly doesn't have enough of a "tang
to be interesting", and I'm inclined to agree with him – the mild
flavour is lost among the Worcestershire sauce, mustard and stout in Hix's recipe.
However, at the risk of exposing myself as a cheese wimp, I find mature
cheddar too aggressively flavoured – after half a slice, I start to
feel a cheese overdose coming on (and this from someone weaned on
Roquefort). Delia's parmesan obviously just makes the situation worse,
but I'm on to something with lancashire; it has just enough bite to
dominate the dish, without smothering every other ingredient in the
process. The toast
Although I like my rarebit made with seedy wholemeal toast, which I think gives a more interesting texture and a pleasantly malty flavour, I respect your right to use any sort of bread you like (although no one will persuade me of the merits of the Welsh rarebit foccacia, seen on the menu at a pub I recently didn't eat at). That said, it must be robust enough to take the weight of the cheese; anything too pappy will just become soggy. You can help it along by toasting both sides of the bread before adding the topping, as Mark Hix suggests, rather than just one, as in the Prawn Cocktail Years recipe: the outer edges might char slightly on their second grilling, but, as they'll be covered in cheese, you're unlikely to regret this.The liquid
Mrs Beeton recipe welsh rarebit. Photograph: Felicity Cloake
Most rarebit recipes, with the exception of Nigel Slater's quick version,
loosen the cheese with a liquid: milk or ale, in Jane Grigson's
version; cider for Cheese Society; port for Mrs Beeton; or stout, which
comes with the weighty recommendations of both Mark Hix and the Bareham /
Hopkinson team. The cider is too acidic for my taste, and the port, while surprisingly delicious, gives the dish a vinous tang that reminds me more of a Swiss fondue than something from the Black Mountains. (It also turns the cheese a rather scary colour.) The ale isn't bad – it adds a subtle nutty flavour – but once I try a rarebit made with stout, I'm sold.
Simon Hopkinson recipe welsh rarebit. Photograph: Felicity Cloake
It gives the dish a rich malty savouriness which works brilliantly
with the salty tang of the cheese – and there are a number of great
Welsh stouts available too, just to soften the blow of that English
cheese. Nigel, meanwhile, mixes his cheese with solid butter, which
gives a denser, more intensely cheddary topping which I'd hesitate to
describe as anything grander than a simple cheese on toast.The rich bit
Jane Grigson recipe welsh rarebit. Photograph: Felicity Cloake
Such fat, however, is an important distinguishing feature in a proper
rarebit. It could be melted butter, as in Jane Grigson's recipe, double
cream, as in Mark Hix's, or egg yolks, as used in the Prawn Cocktail
Years, but without it, as Mrs Beeton's recipe proves, the cheese quickly
reverts to a rubbery mess (which is no doubt why she advises keeping it
bubbling over a rather nifty-looking "cheese toaster" filled with hot
water, for people to spread on to toast at table). I think the butter makes things rather too liquid and greasy, and by the time I've reduced the double cream with the stout, I'm not sure I can taste it anyway. Egg yolks, however, work brilliantly to soften the cheese to a spreadable consistency, although I wouldn't wait until it's completely cool to stir them in, as Simon and Lindsay suggest, because by this point it has solidified to such an extent that it's difficult to beat back into smooth submission.
Wildcards
The Cheese Society's recipe welsh rarebit. Photograph: Felicity Cloake
Delia uses eggs yolks too, added to a white sauce, and then mixed
with cheese and folded into some whipped up egg whites to make what is,
essentially, a soufflé base, which is then piled on to toasts and
grilled. The airy texture does nothing for me though – gooey should be
the watchword with rarebit.The Cheese Society also has an unusual take on this classic dish. I start by whisking flour into milk, and heating until slightly thickened, then stirring in cheese, breadcrumbs and cider and continuing to cook until the mixture comes away from the side of the pan. The mixture is then whizzed in a food processor, along with an egg and an egg yolk, before it's ready to be spooned on to toast, and grilled.
Seasonings
I like English mustard in my rarebits, just to add a bit of a kick – wholegrain and Dijon are both too sharp here for my taste. Worcestershire sauce is a must, but I can do without Tabasco and cayenne pepper: the mustard adds all the subtle heat the dish needs.Perfect welsh rarebit
Felicity's perfect welsh rarebit. Photograph: Felicity Cloake
Welsh rarebit may be a simple dish, but if even Nigel Slater admits
to a few failures, then it's certainly worth getting the basics right.
This is my perfect version, but, using the same formula, play around
with different kinds of cheeses and beers until you find one that would
tempt you out of paradise. Because if heaven isn't toasted cheese, then I
don't know what is.Serves 2
1 tsp English mustard powder
3 tbsp stout
30g butter
Worcestershire sauce, to taste
175g lancashire cheese, grated
2 egg yolks
2 slices bread
1. Mix the mustard powder with a little stout in the bottom of a small pan to make a paste, then stir in the rest of the stout and add the butter and about 1 tsp Worcestershire sauce – you can always add more later if you like. Heat gently until the butter has melted.
2. Tip in the cheese and stir to melt, but do not let the mixture boil. Once smooth, taste for seasoning, then take off the heat and allow to cool until just slightly warm, being careful it doesn't solidify.
3. Pre-heat the grill to medium-high, and toast the bread on both sides. Beat the yolks into the warm cheese until smooth, and then spoon on to the toast and cook until bubbling and golden. Serve immediately.
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